A show starting fifteen minutes behind schedule counts as "late" at Copenhagen Fashion Week. That might sound like a joke, but a Highsnobiety editor was genuinely thrown off the first time they covered CPHFW years ago — because while Paris and New York have normalized tardiness as just part of the routine, here, being on time is the baseline. What's interesting is that this almost military-grade scheduling efficiency doesn't produce a stiff, buttoned-up show experience. Instead, it fuels the loosest, most fun fashion week of the season.
The logic is simple: nail the functional part — punctuality — first, and that frees up room to actually have fun. The opening show came from returning mainstay OperaSport, followed immediately by Nicklas Skovgaard's SS27 collection, which put that logic into vivid practice. The entire lineup channeled a '60s aesthetic, with models arriving and exiting via a vintage car, while the girl group True Blue performed on a stage set at the far end of the runway. The models who walked out of the car were affectionately nicknamed the "Skovgaardettes."
Marimekko's Contradiction: Cute Meets Ferocious
The Finnish brand Marimekko's show this season played out like a flirtation — as each look walked down the runway, it became clear the entire collection was built on contrast. Backstage, creative director Rebekka Bay spoke about the season's core idea: "We really wanted to create a new silhouette, something with a bit of youth, a bit of cuteness. But beyond the cuteness, we also wanted to hold onto that fierce femininity — that stark contrast was intentional." She added: "We're obviously a womenswear brand, but especially right now, there really are no rules when it comes to men wearing women's clothing."
Herskind designer Birgette Herskind's SS27 collection offered a different kind of interplay — the push and pull between softness and structure. The looks began almost whisper-quiet before building intensity as the show progressed. "We wanted to highlight the tailoring, since that's really the foundation of the brand," Herskind explained backstage, "but we also wanted to show how these classic pieces can be styled in new ways."
Other standouts from the season included Collina Strada's full collection built entirely from upcycled materials, Baum und Pferdgarten's show staged in King's Garden, By Malene Birger opting for a manor estate on the outskirts of the city, adidas' collaboration with O.Files, and Caro Editions reworking Levi's jackets with deadstock haute couture trim fabric.
CIFF: A Trade Show That Pops Champagne
Copenhagen International Fashion Fair is Europe's largest trade show — the kind of event that, on paper, should be all packed inventory and buyers negotiating with sales reps in some dull warehouse setting. But CIFF flips that script: last season, an editor on-site got a permanent tattoo from a tattoo artist stationed right at the fair. This season, after wrapping up meetings, attendees stumbled into a champagne happy hour set up right between rows of clothing racks — a literal "business in the front, party in the back" scenario. This approach — serious business paired with a party atmosphere — has already helped CIFF expand into Paris and Milan, turning the trade show format into something people actually enjoy.
CPHFW hits every note a fashion week is supposed to hit: decadence and glamour, entertainment and grueling physical work, buzz and trend-chasing. The difference is that everything arrives on time — audiences aren't left chasing a schedule, which means they actually have the energy to enjoy the clothes and the shows for what they are.
