FoodThai-Style Fish Cakes at This Nishi-Azabu Bar Get Their Balloon-Like Puff From One Pot of Hot-and-Cold Frying
At "Bar Kwang" in Tokyo's Nishi-Azabu, chef Junko Hasegawa's homemade Thai-style satsuma-age relies on frozen catfish paste and a temperature-swing technique—starting low, finishing on high heat—to achieve a puffiness never seen before.